Drop Point Hunter
By far my most popular knife and for good reason.  The Drop Point Hunter
combines design and utility to make a useful tool that is truly pleasing to
the eye.  The angle of the blade in relation to the handle was developed
while I was doing cutting tests.  The result is a comfortable fit to the
hand while cutting at near waist level. (Use link on home page to see
cutting test)

Handlemay be pinned with 4-6 pins in brass or stainless steel.  Also held
in place with Colby or Lovess Style bolts.

The most durable knife can be made from A2 for some stain resistance or
O1 for heavy use.  Combine with a tough Desert Ironwood handle for
looks or Micarta for durability.

Blade 4 1/2 x 1 1/4".. Overall length 8 1/2

See pictures here and in gallery to see what combination fists your need.
Click on Image to see more stag drop points
Kydex Sheath, Colby Bolts in Black Linen  Micarta

This is a real tough combination,  Micarta is layers of linen and resin,
Kydex is a thermo setting plastic, and Stainless Colby Bolts really
hold it together.  Combine with A2 tool steel for edge holding and
toughness and you have a really tough combination.  A2 has 5%
chrome (Stainless has 13%) but it really helps protect the blade.
1. Green Canvas Micarta
2, Green Linen Micarta
3. Black Micarta

Colby Bolts, Kydex Sheath
1. Cocobollo, Stainless Guard, Red Spacer, Colby Bolts




2. Black Linen Micarta, Stainless Guard & Thong Hole, Red Spacer, Colby Bolts





3. Ivory Linen Micarta, Stainless Guard & Tong Hole, Red Spacer Colby Bolts




4. Stag w/ 4 Brass Pins and Brass Guard
Snake Wood, 4
brass pins
Desert Ironwood w/
Pouch Leather Sheath
Hand tooled barb wire detail
Makers Note:  Wood in this style is
not a good choice for a Thong Hole, it
may crack over time.  Micarta is best.
Makers Note:  Canvas micarta
provides more grip but will not sand
smooth.   Best if using when wet.
Makers Note: I took an A2 blade and 440c blade on an ocean kayak for a day.  
They both developed some small corrosion spots, not much, just spots.  Both
cleaned up with a little steel wool and oil.

I prefer A2 for a working blade since I can throw it aside and not worry about
corrosion.  I like O1 or a simple steel like 1084 or 1095 for my EDC and camping
knives since over time they will get a great patina of use loosing that just got the
knife look.  
Makers Note:  I use Teak Oil for all wood finishes.  The
oil will penetrate deep and provide great protection.  A like
new finish can be achieved by sanding with very fine sand
paper ( 600+ grit) or steel wool and apply any oil.  The Teal
Oil is still in the wood, you are just refreshing the surface.  
All handles are sealed between the blade and handle with
epoxy.
Desert Ironwood
Teak Oil Finish
Larger version of Drop Point, green canvas micarta w/Kydex sheath, see more
detail at WorkingKnives.com